AdventureKayaking on the Umngot
Paddle on one of India's clearest rivers with a local guide.
WhereDawki, West Jaintia Hills
From ShillongAbout 85 km, around 3 hours
Best monthsNovember to April, for the clearest water
TimeHalf a day, or a night in Shnongpdeng
DoBoating, kayaking, swimming
ParentsEasy, a few steps to the boats
Check before you go: Timings, fees and access can change with the season, festivals and weather. Check the latest timings before you go; on our trips we confirm them for you.
Dawki is a border town in Meghalaya where the Umngot River runs so clear you can see the riverbed beneath the boats. It is about 85 km from Shillong, roughly a 3-hour drive. The water is clearest from November to April; in the monsoon it turns green-brown.
Why the Umngot river looks like glass
The Umngot, called Wah Umngot locally, flows down from the Jaintia Hills over a bed of smooth stones. With little silt in the dry months, sunlight reaches the bottom, so boats seem to hang in mid-air in photographs.
Dawki sits where the river meets the plains of Bangladesh. You can see the border crossing at Tamabil, and the old suspension bridge is a familiar sight in most photos.
Is it okay for parents?
EasyStepsA few steps down to the boat point
WalkingShort and flat
ToiletsBasic toilets near the boat point
Good for parents. Ask for a life jacket for everyone.
Dawki or Shnongpdeng: where to go on the river
Dawki itself is busy, with boats waiting at the ghat. A few kilometres upstream, Shnongpdeng is quieter and better for a longer stay, with riverside camps and homestays.
Most of our travellers prefer Shnongpdeng for the night and visit the Dawki stretch for a short boat ride.
How to reach Dawki from Shillong
| From | Distance | By road |
|---|---|---|
| Shillong | About 85 km | Around 3 hours |
| Mawlynnong | About 30 km | About 1 hour |
| Guwahati | About 180 km | 5 to 6 hours |
Most people pair Dawki with Mawlynnong on the same day. Self-drive rentals for tourists are not allowed in Meghalaya, so book a taxi or a trip with a driver.
Things to do on the Umngot
- Boating: a traditional wooden boat ride is the classic way to see the clear water.
- Kayaking: calm stretches near Shnongpdeng are good for beginners.
- Swimming and snorkelling: only where the river is calm, with a life jacket, and as your guide advises.
- Camping: riverside camps at Shnongpdeng in the dry season.
Veg and Jain food
Simple vegetarian meals are available at local eateries. Carry snacks for Jain food.
Experiences nearby
Do more with locals
Adventure
Must doWalk to the Riwai living root bridge
A short, easy walk to a bridge grown from living tree roots. A good choice for parents.
Food & peopleKhasi home lunch in Mawlynnong
Sit down for a home-cooked Khasi lunch with a family in one of the cleanest villages in India.
AdventureFAQ
Umngot River: your questions
When is the Umngot river clearest?
From November to April. During the June to September monsoon, rain carries silt and the water turns murky.
Is Dawki or Shnongpdeng better for a stay?
Shnongpdeng. It is quieter, a few kilometres upstream, and has riverside stays; Dawki is better for a short boat ride.
Can non-swimmers enjoy the Dawki river?
Yes. Boat rides need no swimming, and life jackets are provided for kayaking and swimming spots.
Can you see Bangladesh from Dawki?
Yes. Dawki is on the border, and the plains of Bangladesh are visible from the river and the bridge area.
Is Dawki worth it in the monsoon?
Only if you want the greenery. The river loses its famous clarity, and boating can stop when the water rises.
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